An Italian Renaissance

By Joyln Taylor

SIENNA, ITALY - This quaint Tuscan city is straight out of the middle ages. Sienna thrives on its medieval celebrations and traditions; and as you walk along the narrow cobblestone vias, wind through three story centuries old buildings, and greet the friendly locals you will begin to catch some of the power of centuries of traditions passed from generation to generation. ¦ But when I say the power of tradition, I mean the power to compel grown men to pull on tights, velvet tunics, long sleeves, and hats in the middle of ninety-degree summer heat. They don't stop there either. While wearing this beautifully ornate attire, they march, shout, beat drums, and throw 4x4 foot flags (my favorite part).

The reason behind the marching, shouting and drumming is Palio, two horse races held July 2nd and August 15th.

Seventeen competing districts make up each Palio (the name of the race itself as well as the name of the trophy) ten of these "contradas" race. This crazy horse race comes straight from the days of King Arthur. The ten lucky riders risk life and limb galloping bareback twice around the central piazza (conveniently a trapezoidal shape so falls are guaranteed) amidst the thundering cheers of tens of thousands of locals and tourists.

The townspeople's enthusiasm and pride draws tourists from all over the globe to witness this tradition. All week leading up to the actual race held on a Friday, the high officials hold selection trials of horses and jockeys, contrada dinners, and the required parades throughout the streets.

All pale in comparison, however, to the big race. Some fellow students and I camped out for close to six hours just to claim a spot with a view of the finish line. Fans fill the center of the piazza, line the rickety wooden bleachers, and hang from every overlooking window and rooftop. The actual racetrack consists of dirt 10 yards wide along the border of the fairly small piazza. The race only lasts a minute and a half but trust me, those 90 seconds pack in more drama than many a two-hour feature film.

The Palio in July contained even more excitement than normal because the heavy favorites ended up losing to a horse that had thrown his rider on the second to last turn! Complete chaos and I loved every minute of participating in traditions dating back centuries, surrounded by people, many of whom were period dressed for the occasion. I felt connected in a very real way to a completely foreign way of life. If ever you have the chance to take a detour through Tuscany during July or August, don't miss hesitate to go. You'll come away waving contrada flags, chanting songs you don't even understand, and most importantly, cherishing incredible memories steeped in tradition.